Mustachioed darling of the Moscow fashion world Denis Simachev is famous for juxtaposing Russian folklore with couture flippancy. Hence his trademark “Putin’s face framed by a stitched garland” t-shirt. But for his Spring/Summer ’09 fashion line, Simachev is laying off the khohloma floral prints he's relied on for years, and tapping into another Russian tradition — substance abuse.

The look, according to Simachev’s latest press release, is at once “worn out cocaine chic inspired by Studio 54” and “heroine chic … inspired by the early 1990s in America,” all merged with the drug and drinking culture of Moscow’s streets. That’s some speedball. And the “ordinary Russian guy” for whom Simachev designed this new wave-inspired line sounds like the friend you leave off your party e-vite: “He makes mistakes. He feels. He dances. What's he high on? He is just high.” Which isn’t to say he lacks the confidence to pull off acid-washed jeans or a hunter green suit. Must be the coke.

For those lacking boldness and/or chemically induced inhibition, there are many solid black options. Especially in the women’s line — a somewhat less-ambitious look described as “borrowed from a boyfriend.” What, Russian women can’t pull off the shady drug dealer look?

We’re curious to see how Simachev’s “irresponsible cokehead” collection and lofty price-tags fare given the current economic climate. Uppers are for boom times, after all; financial crises call for either sober accountability or depressants. Simachev’s embrace of the good life at this time is more than a little ironic. But then, paradox is just another Russian tradition.

Spring/Summer 2009 Show, Milan [Denis Simachev Website]

Photo courtesy of Denissimachev.com